Turin, where Italy was born
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Not many know that nòt Rome, but the majestic city of Turin, once,
was Italy’s first capital. Before that, the Appenin peninsola had been divided in numerous
little kingdoms, city states and duchies. Perfect backdrop for ages of wars,
competition and suspicion between them. The idea of eliminating all borders,
installing one royal family and nominate one capital city, was born 1861 in Turin. That makes Italy, today, only 159 years young...
In the 19th century Turin was ahead of it’s time and ready for a historical turnabout. It’s liberal atmosphere was fertile soil for intellectuals, professors and administrators who agreed that things had to change. It would be in everybody’s favour to create a united Italian peninsula and Turin would be it’s capital.
To avoid imprissonment or death sentences in their own state, these future politicians had fled to Turin where they found a safe haven and eachother. They discussed their plans and strategies in Turin's famous coffeehouses. One of them was the young De Gasperi. He became the first prime minister of the Italian kingdom.
In 1860 Turin was the centre of the Sardinian Kingdom, ruled by the Savoia family. It was one of the biggest kingdoms around and covered a vast aerea from Sardinia to mainland Liguria and a part of the Piemonte region. King Vittorio Emanuele was a powerful man with experience in state affairs. He therefor wasn’t a total newcomer, when elected for the throne of Italy in 1861.
No, not a new face, but certainly not an appreciated figure in the South of Italy, where independent islands as Sicily and proud cities like Naples had had their òwn royal families. Least to say, they were not pleased with a new ruler, from the North. Queen Margherita, Vittorio’s wife, was clever enough to understand she needed to mingle with the people, in order to be accepted. When in Napels she ordered her staff to bring her to a pizzeria. The plan worked. The 'pizzaiolo' created la pizza Margherita for her. It became the most famous pizza in the world.
With my TV -crew shooting in Turin, for a docu series about Italy
Back to Turin, the city that still looks like capital city, more then Rome does. How come?
During the economic boom just after the second World War, Turin was blessed with the FIAT fabric. Europe’s motorways were filled with the succesful 500 models. Turin became the biggest Italian industrial city. Tens of thousands of ‘meridionali’ (Italians from the South) transfered to work here. Thanks to that strong market position the city was rich, became richer and was able to keep it’s elegance, maintaining it’s cultural treasures.
It makes Turin the perfect destination for your citytrip... Some examples?
The factory that kept this city on a roll during the 50’s, 60's and the 70’s,
is not producing cars no more, but the building has been restored and now houses
a shopping mall, a cinema and several hotels. On it's rooftop you can do some incredible 'timetraveling'. Between heaven and earth, on 30 meters heigth, you find the former FIAT test-circuit. All FIAT models were tested here, but also F1 racecars were test driven on the 1km black asfalt, 'hanging in the air'. A surreal location, out of this world.
In the citycentre you find Piazza Castello and the royal palace. You can visit the private apartments where the Savoia's lived till 1946.
In that year a national referendum decided that Italy became a republic state. The royal family was send to Portugal and denied
all access to their former property, that became state ownership.
The Royal Palace
On the same square Palazzo Madama will ask your attention. Easy to
recognise by it’s impressive baroque facade that decorades the old castle behind it. Part
of the building dates back to Roman aera, when it was the city’s entrance gate.
The building hides a curious story. Now, you need to know that thìs used to be the Royal Palace, but, when king Filiberto set food in it for the first time (somewhere in 1500) he disliked it right away. Pointing at the enormous white building at the other side of the square he screamed:
‘Why does the bisschop have a bigger palace then I do?’
Less then a few days later the bischop was kicked out of his residence and Filiberto made it it’s own. Leaving Palazzo Madama empty.
The baroque facade of Palazzo Madama illuminated by the sun
When his wife, queen Cristina of France, came over from Sardinia, she was totally excited to move to Turin. Living in a city could spice up her life a bit, she thought. But soon she understood that living, locked up, in a big palace was worse than the island Sardinia. The strickt rules of the new royal court did not give her any chance to integrate with the outside world. When she learned about the ‘little’ abandoned palace at the same square, she did not waste a minute. Inventing an excuse she, and her entourage, moved next door. Close, but far enough from her husband to engage herself in private, naughty, parties. Got to love this woman and now you know why it’s called Palazzo Madama.
Palazzo Madama
You wont find any turist traps in Turin, but you might be surprised to learn that the city houses the
biggest and richest collection of Egyptian, pharaonic art outside
Cairo. An absolute must for who has never been to Egypt, but also for those who
were. Last but
not least, La Mole Antonelliana, former synagogue, symbol of Turin. Constructed
in 1850 it reached 167 meters and was the tallest building of Europe. Today it houses the filmmuseum and it’s still considered an important landmark not only for the city but it also symbolises freedom
of speech and -religion.
Former private gardens of La Reggia Venaria, nowadays public parc
Astonishing facts
and figures in La Venaria
Just half an hour drive outside
the citycentre you find, literally, one of the ‘biggest secrets’ on Italian
territory.
Build in 1675 as a
hunting-residence, this 80.000m2 palace is still one of the largest in the
world. Immagine a house as big as eleven soccer fields. You might feel alone
pretty quick. Well, the Savoia’s didn’t, they had about 500 servents.
Hunting was a
social event. Other dukes and kings were invited to the 1.000.000m2 estate and while shooting at wild pigs, ducks and deers, business was done and even marriages arranged.
The ballroom where guests were invited is impressive
Numbers in this castle are outragous. Not less then 66 cooks worked in 7 different kitchens. Every kind of food had it’s own kitchen. One was dedicated to fish, one to desserts and an other one to fruit and vegetables, etcetera. Being a hunting-resort the kitchen where te meat was roasted traditionally, counted 22 cooks. Obviously there were only men cooking. Obviously? Yes, in those days women were not allowed to cook. Why? They were not to be trusted…
Rumours say that the king would give his loyal wife one pearl neckles for every mistress he had, lucky her
Being rich and famous in a contest of wars
and conflicts, as I described before, a sovereign needed to be careful. Poisoning
food was a frequently used technic to get rid of ones competitor, and women were
considered easily persuadable creatures of nature. The threat was thàt realistic
that the king had build a kitchen called ‘La bocca’. All food, ready to be
served, was tasted…
Hunting started with a foodbanquet,
not in the castle, but in the middle of the nature. Think of the organisation... The hunt itself was executed with 200
horses and 20 dogs. When hunting ended successfully (read ‘agreements made’) the king offered his guests a good glas
of fresh animal blood.
Lorenzo @Torino Caffe
So if you like to start your visit to Turin in a traditional way, dont do that with a glass of blood, but go to Piazza San Carlo. Coffeesalon Torino Caffè is one of those places where it all started, where Italy was born... Tell the waiter Lorenzo that I’ve send you. I’m sure he’ll suprises you with a free ‘Gianduiotto’,
a tipical little chocolate bar, made in Turin.
Keep travelling with me through Italy on a daily base.
Bravo Pascal! Very interesting and professional!! Wonderful pictures!
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